A SAMPLE PAGE FROM THE GLOSSARY The glossary includes definitions of terms used in the captions, and offers a general vocabulary useful in referring to the fabrics and furnishings found in SOFT SURFACES.

Batik. A resist-dyeing process in which the design is drawn in wax drawn directly on the fabric. When the fabric is dyed, the waxed areas remain undyed. The wax is then removed. Batiste. A fine, sheer, lightweight plain weave made of cotton, silk, wool, linen, or appropriate synthetic. Batting. Fluffed fibers of wool, cotton, kapok, polyester, or other appropriate material formed into sheets and used as padding. Bayadere. Originally a plain-woven fabric with bright contrasting horizontal stripes based on an Indian fabric. The term now refers to any horizontal pattern layout. Beetling. A finishing technique in which damp material passes between a metal cylinder and mallets to increase the luster and give a harder surface to the fabric Berber yarn. A thick, originally handspun, natural color yarn with very little twist.

Berlin work. Victorian needlework done from kits, produced in Berlin, Germany, that contained canvas with printed color-coded patterns and matching yarn, called Berlin wool or zephyr. Bird’s eye. A woven pattern consisting of a dot surrounded by a diamond, found, for example, in dobby fabrics. Blanket. Textile industry term for a sample piece of fabric woven in the various colors available in that line. Blend. A yarn or fabric made from two or more types of fiber. Blister cloth. Fabric with a pebbled surface made by a variety of techniques including crepe weave; weaving the cloth from a combination of yarn that shrinks and yarn that does not and finishing with a process to cause shrinkage; chemically causing areas on the fabric to react; varying the tension during the weaving. Block printing. A process using blocks carved with a pattern to print a design.

FIGURE G-1 BASKET

FIGURE G-2 CONTINUOUS BROCADE

Bobbinet. A lightweight hexagonal net fabric used for trim, curtains, and theatrical backdrops. Bobbin lace. Handmade lace made by outlining the pattern on a cushion (or pillow) with straight pins and working the thread around the pins. Also called pillow lace. Bonded fabric. A fabric made of two layers of cloth permanently joined with resin or an appropriate adhesive, sometimes to increase the structural integrity of the fabric. See also Laminate. Bouclé. An irregular curly yarn made from heavy, pretwisted threads twisted around a fine core yarn. Botanical. A design showing entire plant forms, often including the roots, rendered as in a botanical illustration. Braid. (1) A narrow flat or round fabric constructed by diagonally intertwining sets of yarns. See figure G-2. (2) Any narrow fabric used for trimming. Braided rug. A rug made from strips of fabric that are braided together, wound into a spiral, and stitched together to form a round or oval mat. Broad goods. Fabric wider than 18 inches (46cm).

Broadcloth. A fine plain-woven cloth of spun yarn woven on a loom wider than 27 inches (69cm). Broadloom. Woven carpets wider than 12 feet (3.6m). Brocade. (1) A compound fabric in which a supplementary warp or filling yarn (one that may be removed without affecting the base fabric) is inlaid into a base fabric during the weaving process to yield the appearance of embroidered motifs. In sections where the supplementary yarn is not visible on the face, it may float on the back of the fabric between the areas where it is woven; this is called continuous brocade. In discontinuous brocade, the supplementary yarn is only woven into the patterned areas. See figure G-2. (2) Fabric constructed with a brocade weave. Brocatelle. A traditionally silk and linen fabric with a high-relief motif created with a stuffer pick. The motif, often in satin weave, is created with a supplementary warp in a color that contrasts with the ground. Broché. Usually silk fabric with a small clipped brocade floral design. Brushed fabric. Woven and knitted fabrics that have been napped and have a soft, pile-like hand. Buckram. A coarse, open, plain-woven, heavily sized fabric used for stiffening.